Obviously anyone coming to Japan will
need a place to stay. Most conversation school teachers and students have
apartments prepared for them by their schools. Some Japanese language schools can set up
apartments for students as well. Finding an apartment in Tokyo near the
workplace/school is sometimes difficult. (Average commute for office workers is
an hour by train.) The farther out you go the more likely you are to find an affordable
apartment but "affordable" is a relative term, of course. Average
apartment rent varies quite a bit depending on size and location. Those who are used to
New York or Hong Kong rents will not find any surprises here.
Japanese room size is defined by how many tatami
mats will be used to cover the floor. The most common size is a 6 mat
room. 4.5 mats is about the smallest reasonable space for living. Apartments will
be described similar to "6, 6, 4.5" which would be a place with two 6
mat rooms and one 4.5 mat room.
In apartment ads "L" refers
to "Living room" a room off the kitchen. "D"
is "Dining", which means that the kitchen is large enough to fit a
table into. "K" is "Kitchen" and means that
the apartment has a kitchen. So "3LDK" means 3 rooms, a living room
space and a kitchen with dining area. A 2DK reasonably near a train station on a
major line will cost about 100,000 yen a month. The grossest apartment I have even
seen (much less lived in) was a single 6 mat room on top of a tofu
factory in a pre-war building. Rent was 18,000 yen - miraculously
low. (Just the other day, we were marvelling at somebody's two 6 mat +
kitchen 10 minutes walk from a major station with 72,000 yen rent.)
When first renting an apartment the renter needs to
pay key money (reikin) which is basically a bribe
to the landlord to let you live there and security deposit (shikikin).
These are usually in amounts of one or more months worth of rent. So if you find an
apartment for 80,000 yen and it has a "2,1" policy you have to pay
160,000 yen (2 months rent) worth of key money and 80,000 yen for deposit.
If a realtor helps you find the apartment the normal
payment is one month of the apartment's rent for services.
The first month's rent is also usually paid in advance. The 80,000 yen
apartment in the example above would thus require:
| Key money |
160,000 |
| Deposit |
80,000 |
| Realtor |
80,000 |
| Advance |
80,000 |
| Total |
400,000 |
Or about $4,000 just to move
in and live that first month.
You can get most of the deposit back in most cases
(unless you really trash the place) but key money is non-refundable. Apartment
contracts are commonly 2 years long and renewal normally requires another
key money payment. Sometimes this is lessened or even waived if you have lived in
a place for long enough. It is also usual to raise the rent a few thousand yen when making
the new contract.
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There are alternative places to stay
like youth hostels, "gaijin houses" (boarding houses for
foreigners), home stays, group housing, shared apartments, and lots of others.
There are books available in stores like Kinokunia and by mail that
describe places to live and how to find jobs teaching English and so on. Look in large
stores that have Japanese language and cultural books. There used to be a really good one
called Jobs in Japan but I have no idea if it is available or had been updated. (I
haven't looked for such books in many years.) Jobs In Japan is a good source of
information about living in Japan, but its views about getting an English teaching job are
now overly optimistic. |
So how much does it cost to move
to Japan? Not an easy question to answer but my advice is to have about US
$10,000 in cash to set up and live 3 months and an additional $1500 a month to survive
unless you have a job. (This is just a ball-park figure.) Considering the
previous example of apartment rent ($4,000 moving in fees) the addition of utilities (gas,
electricity, water) and miscellaneous household expenses will take the total closer to
100,000 yen ($1,000) a month. This would be about $6,000 for 3 months
stay. This figure does not include food, travel or other expenses (Manga! Video rentals!)
that will be incurred.
Of course, if you are staying at a less
expensive place (shared housing, the YMCA or wherever) it will be less expensive
for rent but there will still be other expenses. Tokyo is one of the most
expensive cities in the world to live in. |